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Buenos Aires: Culture of a city

Buenos Aires is often described as “the Paris of South America.” Of course you can’t apply that the whole city, but there are definitely areas with a neoclassical feel. It makes sense when you learn that Italian, French and Spanish expats have hugely influenced the place. In fact at the same time Tim’s Sicilian grandma came to the US, her cousins headed to Argentina. I loved wandering around and snapping architectural shots like the one above. But the charm of the city goes beyond the design of buildings. With it’s café culture, dog walkers and late-night dinners, it’s hard not to fall for BsAs.

One of the newest trendy areas in BsAs is Palermo, which is further broken down into smaller neighborhoods. We stayed in Palermo Soho, a neighborhood that ten years ago was full of warehouses and run-down stucco homes. Like any growing city, it’s now the place to be, having transformed into a hotspot with boutiques full of pottery, jewelry, clothes, art and cool sneakers. Wandering the tree-lined streets, full of hip bars and great restaurants, in the crisp fall air — and posing in doorways — was romantic and relaxing. More on our stay here in a future post.

The people of Buenos Aires are passionate about their food, whether it’s pizza from the shop on the corner or a grass-fed beef from the Pampas. And the cafes are an extension of the belief in making dining a full, laid-back experience. Every main street has at least one, if not six cafes, with indoor and outdoor seating. They serve up not just coffee, but also sandwiches, salads, empanadas and of course, desserts. We visited a bunch and loved to just sit and people-watch.

Another thing Buenos Aires is crazy for is its dogs. But busy professional apartment dwellers would feel bad keeping their perros cooped up all day. Hence the large numbers of dog walkers you’ll see with up to a dozen leashes in hand. I couldn’t get enough of these roaming packs.

When we entered Jardin Botanica, just a short walk from our first hotel, we saw chubby cat sunning itself. Looking to my left, I said, “Hey look Tim, another one.” Then slowly I looked around and realized there must have been over a dozen just off the path from where we stood. Turns out a large population of semi-feral gatos — they’re well-fed by neighbors and receive free veterinary care — has made this gorgeous 15 acre historic botanical garden their home. If you’re a feline lover, like my Mr. Catts, this is a must-see.

And it was in Jardin Botanica that Tim decided on his retirement plans…

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1 comments

  1. Kelly said:
    November 14, 2009 at 4:02 pm

    Hi there! I went to Argentina last year and I had a great time. I enjoyed tango and soccer! People there is so passionate about it. I also stayed in a fancy apartment in Palermo which was really comfortable. Everyone should go to Argentina, it is such a great country!
    Cheers,
    Kell

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